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巴西“国菜”美味中的极品

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腓秀雅杂

       巴西是南美洲饮食文化最丰富多彩的国家之一,巴西食品之所以花样繁多风味独特,是因为它荟萃了葡萄牙人、非洲人及印第安人食品的精华。若问巴西哪个菜最有代表性,你未曾去过巴西也会回答:巴西烤肉呗。不错,烤肉是巴西人最喜爱的风味佳肴,巴西烤肉店不仅本国随处可见,世界各地都能找到,这些年,我们中国人也愈来愈频繁地光顾巴西烤肉店了。

       不过,你如果亲自到了巴西,问问当地人,什么菜最有巴西特色,值得一尝,他们会异口同声回答说:腓秀雅杂(Feijoada)。腓秀雅杂是什么?这个名词来自葡萄牙文一种叫“腓让”(feijao)的黑豆。巴西人把当地特产的黑豆以及除大豆以外的豆类统统称之为“腓让”,他们把黑豆和大米一块儿蒸成豆饭,当作家常便饭,也常把牛肉、鸡肉或猪肉和黑豆混在一起烧制成菜,称作“腓秀雅杂”。

       在巴西菜馆中最具特色的一道菜便是“全套腓秀雅杂”(FeijoadaCompleta)。此菜的用料是牛肉干、熏香肠、咸猪肉、猪耳朵、猪手、猪尾巴、猪舌和黑豆,再加上盐、香料、香草和甘蓝菜,装在陶罐里用文火焖煮两三小时,等熟后再撒上木薯粉、橙子片,传统的吃法是与大米饭拌食。这道菜一出锅,香气扑鼻,鲜美无比,深受大众欢迎,故而被视为巴西的“国菜”。

       要问这“腓秀雅杂”的由来,相传最早出现于16世纪30年代,至今已有300多年历史,它起源于一种奴隶们吃的很卑微的饭菜。奴隶们把主人丢弃不吃的猪爪、猪耳、猪下水拿来加点盐和黑豆、大米一起烩煮,当作果腹的美食。有一次,黑豆杂烩煮熟后一开锅香味四溢,主人闻到后好奇地尝了一口,觉得味道极佳,从此他们自己也爱上这道菜了,后来又被推广到了社会上,逐渐成了全民皆爱的第一佳肴。

       如今的腓秀雅杂的地位早已今非昔比,非但不再卑微,而且堂而皇之地成了巴西人飨客的名菜。在里约、圣保罗等大城市里,一些著名的大饭店只在星期六中午才供应这道菜,顾客必须提前预订,方得一饱口福。近年,里约等地都有腓秀雅杂专卖餐馆了。

       走进餐厅,你会看到白色餐桌上放着一排七八个热气腾腾的大黑陶罐,下方标明不同猪杂碎名称的杂烩,旁边站着一位身穿当年奴隶侍女服装的黑人妇女殷勤地为你服务。食客一般都要先吃一些烤饺子之类的小点心,喝上一小杯“卡夏萨”甘蔗酒,然后选食陶罐中的各式杂烩,自取自添,直至酒足饭饱。

       巴西民间广为流传的一首题为《我偏爱的腓秀雅杂》的诗中写道:“吃了如此味美的腓秀雅杂,一个人还能要求什么别的享受?——显然,只需有一张吊床,和一只让你抚摸的猫咪……”

        所以,你在享用了这顿美餐之后,最好美美地睡个午觉,这才是神仙般的日子。

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我想境境  版主  发表于 2016-5-6 20:21:23 | 显示全部楼层

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chenkejun  新手上路  发表于 2016-6-12 10:47:23 | 显示全部楼层
口水都快流出来了……

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sxfl_admin  管理员  发表于 2016-7-9 08:31:16 | 显示全部楼层

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黑洲非人  新手上路  发表于 2016-12-6 10:08:08 | 显示全部楼层
看着很有食欲

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小源  管理员  发表于 2016-12-8 10:43:17 | 显示全部楼层
牛肉、鸡肉或猪肉和黑豆混在一起烧制的

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iIE46p1wSg  等待验证会员  发表于 2017-4-17 00:47:15 | 显示全部楼层

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